LVMH reveals secrets of its luxury brands
* Third-quarter figures Tuesday expected to show strong
growthBy Alexandria SagePARIS, Oct 17 (Reuters) - For the first time in its history,
luxury conglomerate LVMH has provided a peek into its
exclusive workshops, design showrooms and wine cellars — to
reveal the hundreds of hands and delicate workmanship behind its
expensive brands.Seeking to “reveal the true nature of high quality,”
according to LVMH, the company opened up 25 of its brands to the
public on Saturday and Sunday.Couturiers like Christian Dior and Givenchy welcomed
hundreds of the curious in Paris, while in France’s champagne
region, top makers from Dom Perignon to Moet & Chandon opened
their cellars.In Italy, Bulgari, Fendi and Pucci participated in the
“Private Days”, which also reached Spain, Scotland and Poland.”These are works of art,” said Beatrice de Plinval of
Parisian jewellers Chaumet, referring to the nearly 3,000
diadems — or bejewelled headpieces — the company has produced
since it first began serving the French aristocracy in 1780.
“This is a profession of passion.”Worn no less by Josephine Bonaparte, the first wife of
Emperor Napoleon, Chaumet’s sparkling creations can require
between 500 to 1,500 hours of workmanship. It takes 10 years for
a jeweller to develop a “good hand,” said de Plinval, who is
curator of Chaumet’s archives and museum.”Each house has its identity, so it takes time to learn,”
explained jeweler Nicolas Tappou, who has worked at Chaumet for
15 years - one of the countless artisans who labour behind the
scenes at LVMH’s celebrated houses.LVMH publishes third-quarter sales figures on Tuesday, with
analysts expecting strong growth. Despite the tough global
economic environment, the luxury sector has continued to grow
helped by a resurgence of demand in Europe and strong
performances in Asia.But behind the financial facts and figures and the
ubiquitous Louis Vuitton shopping bags, lies a rich history of
tradition and thousands of hours of home-grown craftsmanship.”The group communicates a lot about its financial
performance but not enough about its savoir-faire and its
history,” Antoine Arnault, head of communications at Louis
Vuitton, said in a statement.”MAGNIFIQUE!”At Dior — whose fashions this year have been
overshadowed by the firing of former designer John Galliano for
uttering anti-Semitic comments that were caught on video - a
grey-haired tailor who has worked at the couturier for a decade
showed small groups the proper way to make a men’s jacket, which
takes about a week and requires 15 pieces of fabric.In the atelier for haute couture - where mannequins in the
shape of each client are lined up on a high shelf — a team of
27 concentrates on gowns, with one person shepherding the dress
from conception to its finish.With new orders for exclusive gowns coming in all the time,
“We don’t have the time to get attached,” to the sumptuous
creations they make by hand, laughed one seamstress.”Magnifique!” exclaimed Vocella Maryse, one of the hundreds
who came from Paris’ outskirts to catch a sneak peek into Dior.
“You can see why it’s so expensive. Now I understand why.”Visitors were shown the high-ceilinged salon where
Givenchy’s famous clients like Hollywood stars Audrey Hepburn
and Elizabeth Taylor would meet with the famous couturier, who
retired in 1995.On display were gowns from Givenchy’s recent autumn-winter
collection, one with tiny, white hand-curled feathers adorning
the bodice, another with delicate balls of cashmere and pearls
imprisoned in muslin creating an avant-garde, textured effect.LVMH’s weekend event was also an opportunity for
architecture and design buffs, as the brands are headquartered
in some of Europe’s most beautiful buildings.The grand marble staircase at Dior , situated on
Paris’ exclusive Avenue Montaigne, was the site of the atelier’s
first fashion shows, where stars like Lauren Bacall and Marlene
Dietrich would watch sinewy models pass by.And at Chaumet, headquartered in Paris’ Place Vendome,
visitors passed through the gold-columned Louis XVI-style salon,
now considered a historical monument, where pianist Frederic
Chopin spent his final days.
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